Charcuterie Board

For Thanksgiving we volunteered to bring a charcuterie board. Naturally that meant I needed to make the actual board itself in addition to us bringing the things that went on it.

Here’s the front and back of the finished board. Determining which is the front and which is the back is left as an exercise to the reader:

I made this out of walnut and red oak. The contrast in color and grain texture between the two woods ended up looking really nice. Here it is just after glue up:

After the glue was dry I planed it down. Cut the ends to length and rounded over the edges. Sanded up to about 220, raised the grain with water, then sanded again.

Finished it with Howard Butcher Block Conditioner (essentially just a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax).

My wife put it all together on Thanksgiving. Here’s the board loaded up with meat, cheeses, olives, and fruit. The bowl on the right is filled with cranberries and lactaid pills:

Live Edge Table

Glamor shots of a table’s natural habitat: outside in the leaves

My friend, Kyle, needed a table for an upcoming performance art show related to playing and running tabletop games. He wanted a table that could act as a physical document of play. The table as a sort of participant in the games. After his shows he’ll be using it for running other games over the years, and likely it will also become a dining room table.

Beyond that the thought was to make something that looked natural and would also show its scars visibly. Over time, and with use, the table will pick up scratches, dings, and nicks. If someone spills something on it, the finish might run or dissolve and that is okay (and desirable!). The hope is that over time the table itself has a clear and readable history.

Here’s some additional shots of the table:

Wood Selection

I source as much of my wood from Urbanwood as possible including everything for this project:

A Gnarly Slab

After a lot of searching I found the perfect slab of pine for the top of the table. Plenty of knots “ugly” spalting and damage from bugs. The price for it had been reduced and reduced again. Under many other circumstances it would be a terrible piece of wood to use for a tabletop. However, for this the gnarlier the slab of wood the better!

To get the right length and width for the top it needed to be subdivided and glued back together.

Here are some shots of dividing the slab up so I could get the right width and length from it and then planing it down to the right thickness:

Apron and Legs

For the apron and the legs I went with oak. It’s hard and stable and matches the pine top well. Similar to the top, we wanted legs with interesting details. The knots here don’t have much of an effect on the strength of the table, but they make the legs far more interesting to look at and give it a tactile feel. Here’s some progress shots just before glue up matching the boards together, and then after the hanger bolts were installed.

Finish

The table is finished with an amber shellac. Shellac should probably never be used for the top of a table. It’s not terribly durable and can dissolve in alcohol. At a minimum if you want to use shellac you should do a final coat of wax. Again though, it’s perfect for this: provides a nice finish that will degrade over time as people use it.

Here’s a before picture alongside a detail shot of it after the shellac was applied:

Conclusion

This was a really fun project! I can’t wait to check back in on the table in a year or two or ten to see what has happened with it. Woodworkers can often get obsessed with making our pieces as permanently perfect as possible. It was a refreshing challenge to make something that was intended to be used and show its scars proudly.

If you’re interested in collaborating on a project, or commissioning a table like this of your own, please reach out!

Tiny candle holders

This past week at the farmer’s market Cobblestone Farm was teaching kids traditional candle making. My daughter happily jumped in line and made two candles. Today I put together a few candle holders out of scrap wood in the shop:

Walnut and Cherry from Urbanwood.

Kitchen Shelves

Our kitchen peninsula was in dire need of some organization. We also had a blank wall directly above it so…shelves!

All of the wood for this project came from Workantile’s storage room: pine slats from someone’s old ikea bed and shelves made from the Baltic birch plywood from an old phone booth project. The screws and edge banding from Home Depot.

I made the shelf supports out of pine based on a google image search for DIY shelf supports. The hardest part was figuring out the order in which to attach everything together to have room to screw things in. For the supports I had to attach the bottom of the angled support to the “L” and rotate it out of the way. Then mount the “L”, then rotate the angled support into place and screw it in that way. There are better ways to do this, but it went pretty quickly.

Finished with shellac and wax. I really like this finishing technique because it looks good and requires minimal drying time.

Installed with much mumbling and annoyance.

Remote Caddy

Made a little caddy for our remotes. The hope is this cuts down on the number of times we have to ask where the Roku remote went.

Mitered the edges and reinforced with splines for rigidity and class.

Pine reclaimed from the Workantile storage room and walnut from Urbanwood. Finished with shellac.

Try Square

Made a try square based on plans from Rex Kruger. Shockingly, it’s pretty and pretty square!

Walnut and cherry from Urbanwood. Aluminum rod for the pins from Home Depot, who looked at me like I was off my rocker for wanting brass rod. Epoxy to hold in the pins. Finished with shellac.

Miter Saws and Circular Saws

A friend asked me whether he needed both a miter saw and a circular saw for a project he’s working on. As we were chatting he told me “this should be a blog post” so here we are.

Important Note: when we think of tools I think we should focus on access rather than ownership. Borrowing and lending tools is vitally important to a healthy society. Tools are meant to be used not acquired to sit on shelves.

Everyone should have access to a circular saw. It will empower you to do lots of projects you might otherwise think are beyond you.

Not as many people need access to a miter saw, but goodness, is it the right tool when you need it.

Regardless of which tool you’re using it’s worth using the right blade for the material you’re cutting. Not all blades are good at all things!

Miter Saw

The motorized version of this is a very useful tool for making quick repeatable crosscuts on widths less than about 8 inches (more if it’s a sliding miter saw) and miter (angled) cuts. You can get non-motorized versions which use your arm as the device to move the saw across the work piece instead. This is tiring for more than a few cuts, but is cheaper.

Where miter saws really shine is with angled cuts. Most of them these days are compound miter saws, which let’s you set the angle of the fence as well as the angle of the blade. This is very useful for trim work.

Primary Advantages vs. a Circular Saw

  • Repeatable cuts: put a stop block on the fence and you can quickly make a bunch of the same length cut by aligning the piece to the stop block.
  • Taller cuts: due to a larger diameter blade they can cut through thicker stock in one clean pass.
  • Accurate: since you have a fixed metal fence and a fixed fulcrum for the saw they’re unlikely to wander
  • Angles: the “miter” part of the name means that the saw can handle complex angles easily.

Primary Disadvantages vs. a Circular Saw

  • Footprint: the size of the tool is a lot larger. You will also likely need a stand of some sort of the tool and to support your work piece.
  • Weight: you’re not going to love moving your miter saw around.
  • Long cuts: even with a sliding miter saw you’re going to max out around 16”
  • Price: they’re more expensive. Sometimes a lot more expensive.

Circular Saw

A circular saw is a portable saw that is designed to be operated with one hand and excels at making cuts that are perpendicular to the surface of the work piece. You can freehand your cut (usually while following a penciled line), or run the edge of the saw plate alongside a straight edge.

Advantages vs. a Miter Saw

  • Portable: if you get a cordless one you can take it with you pretty much wherever. Even a corded one can travel easily.
  • Virtually limitless capacity: since you’re moving the saw across the piece you’re not limited by the size of your fence or blade size.
  • Price: you can get the last circular saw you’ll ever need for less than $100. Less than $50 if you don’t care about it being cordless or it being new.

Disadvantages vs. a Miter saw

  • Accuracy: unless you have a very steady hand or are using a rock solid fence the accuracy of your cut will be lower. Plenty fine for framing. I wouldn’t want to use it for detailed work.
  • Depth of cut: since the blade is physically smaller in diameter it won’t be able to handle as thick of stock as a miter saw
  • Angles: angled cuts are going to be difficult and/or impossible. Straight 90 degree cuts are all you should expect to get out of a circular saw.

Some Thoughts on Tools

Here is what I’ve been learning about tools:

  • Become enamored with taking care of your tools not buying new ones.
  • Buy the cheapest tool you need for a job. If it breaks or fails its intended purpose then buy a more expensive replacement.
  • Completing a project from start to finish is the only way to see what tools you actually need. Planning is fraught with false assumptions.
  • Youtube tutorials are a useful fiction. Watch them for techniques and explanation yet understand that the moments they don’t show are where all the laborious and detailed work is happening.
  • Avoid forums where people argue about specifications and not real world results.
  • If you are scared of the next step, practice it at a smaller scale. If you are still wary, talk it through with a friend.
  • Modify your tools to suit your purposes.
  • Be generous with your tools. Especially those that spend most of their lives sitting on a shelf.

DIY Discovery Tower for Under $50

One thing about toddlers is that they want to see whatever it is you’re doing up there. This leads to plaintive pleadings for “up, up, up, up, up” whenever we are doing anything in the kitchen.

We needed a solution to this that didn’t devolve into ignoring her until we finally caved and picked her up. I posed a question on Workantile’s slack and Andre replied to say that they’d had luck with the Ikea BEKVÄM stool.

In googling for it I stumbled across a DIY project to turn one of them into a “discovery tower”. Real Discovery Towers run in the hundreds of dollars and I’d bet they’re worth it. If you’ve ever bought good furniture you know that there’s a hundred small decisions that go into each piece that can make or break it as a useful object.

However, right now, all we needed was something to get her safely up higher than she is right now. You can buy this mod already done off of etsy, but I’m never going to turn down a chance to make something like this myself.

Which Plans?

There’s a lot of these projects out there on the internet. Everyone does it slightly differently.

Which then sent me over here to this Ikea Hackers post which is what I really used as the basis for our design.

My wife ordered the stool and it arrived a week or so later. I put it together and Scout immediately did this:

Sitting at her table

Affordances are an amazing thing. We had to put her on top of it for her to get the intended use and then she loved it.

Materials and Tools

Aside from the stool the other materials were a spare 2×3 that I had left over from another project, some scrap 1”x4” boards, a dowel, and 2” drywall screws. Paint came from a leftover testing pint we had around.

Tools were a miter saw and a drill with a bit for predrilling and a bit for drilling the dowel hole. You’ll also need a bit for your screws.

The first major step was cutting the 2×3. The 2×3 runs about 1.5” by 2.5” so I took it to the table saw and ripped off an inch to make a roughly 1.5” by 1.5” 8 foot long board. If you don’t have access to a table saw you could skip that step. The tower will just look a bit chunkier. Alternatively, buy a smaller board. That made up the majority of the tower, with some extra scrap used for the top supports and a dowel for the back support.

You can absolutely use nicer materials, but that wasn’t a priority for us for this project.

Also I’m not giving measurements, because it’s very important that you make your own. When following someone else’s plans on the internet I’ve found that what you’re really getting is the general shape of the finished project. Your tools’ tolerances and your materials are always going to be different. This goes double when you’re using scrap wood and framing lumber.

Project Overview:

I’d recommend doing this project in this order, which differs from how I did it. Learn from me!

  • Vertical Supports: measure from top of stool to counter height, cut, drill holes for dowel in back two supports, sand, attach
  • Side Supports: measure between vertical supports, cut, sand, attach
  • Dowel: cut to length and thread through with a dab of glue on each end
  • Top Supports: measure sides, cut, sand, attach. Then measure the front piece, cut, sand, attach

Note that sanding before attaching will save you so much time in the long run. I just did a rough sanding to knock down any sharp corners and clean up splinters. We want the “natural beauty” of the rough lumber to shine through (ha!).

Vertical Supports

First step was to measure from the top of the stool to the top of the counter. I was looking for an exactly even surface because that’s the sort of thing that really makes me happy. Your milage may vary on whether you care or not. If you don’t care, at least going lower than your counter height so you don’t create a lip that is going to get in the way.

The vertical supports are each attached with two screws drilled from the bottom of the top part of the stool. Predrilling with wood like this is a must or you will split it. What I did was predrill through the top board, then put the screws in so they poked through the top just a bit. That let me press the vertical supports down into them to mark them. Then predrill those, then screw it all the way through.

That’s a lot of steps, but the upshot is that nothing split and all the supports are aligned well.

Here’s the underside with a few of the holes predrilled

Side Supports

Once the vertical supports were in I marked off the position for the side supports about 10 inches up. These act mostly as additional handholds for her as she’s climbing into and out of it. They honestly might not be necessary.

Picture of the side supports and the top supports attached

Dowel Support

We originally didn’t have the dowel in place because I didn’t understand why you’d have that there. It only took about 5 minutes for her to be standing up there and lean back to realize that the dowel’s purpose is containment. She can still duck underneath it to get up and into the tower, but the dowel keeps her from flying back off into the void. Parenting is sometimes merely risk mitigation. I’d recommended putting one in, and I’d also recommend putting it in before you screw everything together and fill in the screws with wood putty.

Unpainted without dowel. This is what it looked like without the dowel. This is regret because I had to pull the top supports back off to get the dowel in

She was still happy with it, but we were not.

Happy even in its unfinished state

I used a 1/2” diameter dowel, which felt about right to me. Very little flex at this length and doesn’t require a ton of additional space. I drilled direcly through the vertical supports—trying to stay as level as possible and then threaded it through both of them. It’s tight enough to friction fit, but a dab or two of glue wouldn’t be the worst thing. Then when the top supports go on it covers up the end of the holes.

Top Supports

Finally the top supports go in a 3 wall surround. These provide structural support as well as gives her plenty of room to hold onto something when she’s up there. We could have done something similar to the side supports, but I don’t think it’d be as stable. If I ever did a version two of this I’d be tempted to try it to keep it more compact.

Painting

Finally, we painted it using a leftover paint sample pint. For a job like this that was plenty and we have some leftover for touchups later on. There are plans for additional decoration, will update this when and if that happens.

Here it is drying

She loves it. This morning I showed her how she can push it around to different “stations” in the kitchen. She happily moved it over to get a banana and then to wash her hands. Later she used it to put her plate in the sink. She will surely use it to do more nefarious things later on, but for now it’s giving her more independence and that’s a very cool thing to see.

Picture of her on top of the finished product